Saturday, September 27, 2008

An architect in Helsinki

I am in Helsinki, Finland, couch surfing with an anarchist architect called Antti.

There is a big black hole in my blog between Reykjavik and Helsinki. That hole can be called either 'Brno, Czech Republic' or 'no internet connection.' Settling down for a while has been a challenge. When I left the Czech Republic a few days ago I felt heavy, worried, depressed. The moment I landed in Helsinki I was lifted, and have been feeling light ever since. Travelling is the best antidote for a heavy heart.

I am falling in love with the Czech Republic, if a little slowly and strangely. I'm addicted to the writing of Milan Kundera and I feel that his books will be an important part of the love affair. But enough of Ceska, now to Suomi.

This is my itinerary for today:
- Watch my host perform in a political street play about homelessness in Helsinki
- Trundle off to the park near his house in Kallio for a Food Not Bombs lunch
- Go and see the ex-mayor of Bogota talking about issues of urban change
- See an Estonian film for free (my host's girlfriend works in a cinema) as part of the Love and Anarchy film festival
- Drinking and dancing to Risto, a nerdy underground Finnish musician

The last time I was this busy was in New York. I like this city. Time to get ready!

Monday, September 1, 2008

I got rolled in Reykjavik

Last night I played a show to a handful of devoted fans. It was in a little cafe called Cafe BabalĂș which I have been hanging out at quite a lot. It's cosy, the German woman who runs the place is tiny and gorgeous and absolutely mad, and for one reason or another it attracts a lot of expats and travellers. I have made some great friends whiling away the hours in this place.

Of all the drunken nights I've spent in Iceland, last night was by far the best. Gerwyn came back from Akureyri. Me, Gerwyn and Derek (the half-French Californian) make quite a team. Derek is going off to be a ski instructor in Austria and Gerwyn is going to live in London, though not with his boyfriend as originally planned. I'm hoping we reunite in Austria for a weekend of alpine drinking.

After we were kicked out of the last bar at closing time (2am - Sunday night really is a return to the working week for Icelanders) we went back to my hostel to retrieve the last of my spirits and Derek went to his place for leftover pizza. This geezer from London called Terence came with us. He was inadequately dressed and I felt bad for him, so I lent him my beautiful lamb's wool mittens which I bought at the Blue Lagoon for 1500 Krona (around $21). He stood inside our hostel for a while - I went to pee, Gerwyn to make a sandwich, and when we came back, he was gone. With my mittens.

As we walked to the church to meet Derek I ranted about what kind of foul bastard steals someone's gloves, and Gerwyn said I had been rolled. Damn that guy! As we sat drinking in an alcove at the statue of Leifur Eriksson a man rode past on his bike and asked if we'd seen his friend. Derek seemed to know him and so he stopped to talk. I told this Icelandic man about Terence and said 'If you meet a guy from London called Terence and he has white mittens, please get him for me.' The man paused, got back on his bicycle and said, 'If I see him, I kick him' and rode off into the night.

Today I'm going to ride an Icelandic horse. I saw some from the bus yesterday when I went to the Gullfoss waterfall and the Geysir. Sadly, my camera ran out of juice shortly after I reached the waterfall. Damn not having an Iceland adapter! I will upload photos soon.